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Spending Christmas in Cusco: Things to do and how to celebrate!

Sara and I spent over a month exploring in and around Cusco. It just so happened that this time spanned over December and January, meaning we ended up spending New Years Eve and Christmas in Cusco.

We had such a good time wandering around the city through all the Christmas markets and trying all the local food. We also wanted to immerse ourselves in the Peruvian Christmas culture, and stayed with a local family for the duration of our stay.

A stall outside of Mercado San Pedro selling coats, Christmas decorations and other trinkets.
Christmas goods being sold at a Christmas market in Cusco.

In this guide, we want to cover our experience of spending Christmas in Cusco. We’ll discuss all the best traditions you need to know about, how to celebrate Christmas in Cusco, all the unique things to do and more!

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What is Christmas in Cusco like?

Christmas celebrations in Cusco span over the majority of December, but quickly wrap up after NYE at the beginning of January. During that time, there are tons of temporary markets, plenty of church services, a range of traditions and the local cuisine to get involved in.

One thing to expect is that Christmas in Cusco is BUSY. Cusco is full of people at the best of times but we discovered that it’s also a popular spot for locals to travel to during the Christmas holidays. So not only do you have Cusconion’s and the usual tourist traffic, but also people coming from other Peruvian cities to celebrate.

Sara watching fireworks in the distance in Cusco with a view down the train tracks.
Watching the fireworks on Christmas Eve.

However, we believe that Christmas time is one of the best times of the year to visit Cusco. The city is energetic and alive, there are decorations all over the place and we just felt a really fun and welcoming vibe while we were there!

How to celebrate Christmas in Cusco

Sara and I really think that we celebrated Christmas in Cusco in the best way possible – with locals!

Prior to our arrival, we booked an Airbnb for our stay in the city. What we didn’t realize is that our Airbnb was a duplex within a Peruvian family’s compound. So we ended up spending Christmad and New Years Eve with our host, Fabricio, and his wonderful family.

Ryan and Sara posing with Fabricio and his mum with Molly the dog on Christmas Eve in Cusco.
A Christmas family photo!

We really felt taken care of, we were explained all of the traditions and we got to experience an authentic Christmas in Cusco!

In terms of how Peruvians celebrate Christmas, it all starts on Christmas Eve. Around 9pm on the 24th December, families get together to drink a few drinks and chat about the year. Then at midnight, everyone starts to let off fireworks in the street to celebrate the arrival of Papa Noel! After the fireworks, it’s time to indulge in a homemade chicken soup to ring in Christmas day while children finally get to open their presents.

Christmas day itself is a day to spend with family and loved ones, eating great food and chatting the day away.

Typical Peruvian Christmas traditions in Cusco

There are a few unique Christmas traditions in Cusco that you should know about. Sara and I certainly had a lot of fun participating in some of these!

Build a nativity scene

It’s a widespread tradition in Cusco for families to come together and build their own nativity scenes. We found markets all over the city selling statues and figures of all the characters from Jesus’ birth. Why not make your own and see how creative you can get?

A creative photo of figures of saints for sale in a Christmas market in Cusco.
There’s plenty of places to buy the figures!

However, you make the scene prior to Christmas but don’t place the baby Jesus in the manger just yet. You need to take your baby Jesus to church on Christmas Eve and have him blessed by the priest. Then at midnight on Christmas Eve is when you can lay your baby Jesus in your nativity scene.

Wearing certain colors on NYE

There’s a running tradition in Peru (and in Bolivia we later discovered) of wearing certain colors on New Year’s Eve to correspond to what you want to manifest more of in the coming year. If this is something you want to take part in, here are the colors:

  • Red – symbolizes love, relationships and affection.
  • Green – worn by people with great hopes for the new year.
  • Yellow – want to manifest more money? Yellow is your color!
  • Blue – the color worn by those wanting good health and wellbeing.
  • White – finally, white is worn by people looking for peace.

It turns out, Peruvians are mostly of a materialistic nature, because we were lost in a sea of yellow on New Year’s Eve!

Ryan and Sara taking a selfie in front of crowds at Plaza de Armas while wearing yellow on New Year's Eve in Cusco.
Ryan drunkenly bought us some yellow accessories…

Run around the main plaza 7 times on NYE

Once the clock strikes midnight in Plaza de Armas (the main square in Cusco), fireworks will shoot into the air and it’s a spectacle. But what’s more of a spectacle, is watching thousands of people run around the plaza in an anticlockwise direction.

This tradition states that running around the plaza 7 times at the stroke of midnight will bring you good luck for the coming year!

However, from our experience it’s more of a shuffle than an actual run. There are soo many people taking part in this custom it’s literally impossible to gather any speed. We actually gave up after getting halfway around the plaza because it was taking so long!

Huge crowds of people inside Plaza de Armas at night for New Year's Eve with a view of Cusco cathedral.
A very busy Plaza de Armas on New Year’s Eve!

The Suitcase Run

The final tradition we want to cover is what we’ve dubbed “The Suitcase Run”. Essentially, if you’re looking to manifest a trip sometime in the new year, you need to run around your block pulling an empty suitcase…

Yup, that’s literally the jist of it!

Things to do in Cusco around Christmas and New Years Eve

Most guides you’ll find online about Christmas in Cusco will give you the generic “take a photo with a llama” or “visit Machu Picchu on Christmas”. But we’re not those blogs!

Below is a list of things that we actually did in Cusco that are specific to the Christmas holidays.

Share a paneton

Paneton is actually of Italian origin – called Panettone. It’s been adopted almost worldwide, but if you don’t know paneton is a sweet fruit cake… and it’s rather large!

While in Cusco over Christmas, we saw paneton being sold EVERYWHERE. They were in the supermarkets, being sold in local corner shops and there were piles of panetones in the Christmas market stalls.

A chocolate chip paneton cake sitting on a white chopping board in front of the box.
Our “chocoton”… we demolished it.

We personally opted for a chocolate chip paneton, which was actually a bit more difficult to find, because we’re not too keen on raisins in cakes. But it was a delicious treat that we enjoyed on Christmas day!

Watch the fireworks

In all honesty, you’ll be hearing a lot of fireworks in Cusco from the week leading up to Christmas all the way into the new year. However, there are two big occasions to watch the fireworks.

  • Christmas Eve – as mentioned, it’s tradition in Peru for families to head out onto the streets at midnight on Christmas Eve and set off fireworks. We thought the entire situation was a spectacle!
  • New Year’s Eve – you probably could have guessed this one! Head to Plaza de Armas around 11pm on NYE and find a space to ring in the new year with a huge firework show! You can even buy your own fireworks to set off, pyrotechnic safety isn’t as important in Peru…
Two giant blue roman candle fireworks smoking from the end facing the sky in Plaza de Armas in Cusco on New Year's Eve.
Some giant roman candles Ryan bought for NYE… again drunkenly.

Shop at the Santuranticuy Christmas market

The Santuranticuy is a HUGE Christmas market set up all across Plaza de Armas in the historic center of Cusco. It starts on Christmas Eve and is a great place for local artisans to come and sell their crafts and goods.

We had a long wander around the market and discovered that this would be a great place to buy all the components of your nativity scene. Also you can pick up souvenirs and, strangely, lots of different troll dolls.

Vendors selling handmade goods at the Santuranticuy Christmas market in Cusco.
Handmade textiles and goods at the market.

We found that the market was still somewhat operational on the 25th and 26th of December too. However Christmas 2023 was over a weekend so that could be why. But by the 27th the market had packed up and gone!

Head on a Cusco city tour to admire the decorations

The best way to admire the Chritsmas decorations in Cusco and feel the holiday vibes is to take a tour of the city.

Whether you head out on a stroll independently, or on one of the many free walking tours, you’ll certainly have a great time. From all the Christmas markets, to the stunning churches, the nativity scenes and the aforementioned trolls hanging from windows, Christmas is a great time in the city!

Eat chicken soup with locals

We said it before but we’ll say it again – Christmas Eve is chicken soup time! We’re not entirely sure why, but chicken soup has been a traditional starter served during the early hours of Christmas for many years.

A local Peruvian chicken soup on a glass table besides two glasses of wine.
Our chicken soup made by the lovely abuela!

We were lucky to be lodging with our host family, and the grandmother made the most delicious chicken soup for us! We sat down in the living area together and saw in Christmas day slurping on a rich broth.

Usually, the soup is a starter and can be followed by a main course of turkey. However at 1am, we were pretty happy to have soup and saunter off to bed… we’re so old!

Check out the nativity scene at Plaza de Armas

During Christmas in Cusco, you’ll find nativity scenes everywhere. Although, the main nativity scene can be found in Plaza de Armas on the weeks leading up to Christmas and the week after too.

People queueing up at the giant nativity scene in Plaza de Armas in Cusco.
Queues of people looking for a photo!

It’s a huge depiction of the birth of Jesus, with huge statues of the characters. It’s found opposite the cathedral and there’s usually a big queue of people waiting to get a photo.

Just remember, Jesus won’t be in the manger until Christmas day!

Take a photo with Santa

If you find yourself in the right place at the right time, you can even grab a piccy with Santa!

We personally found Santa in Plaza San Francisco a few times, so that could be a great place to start. Although we did see a few Santa’s (and a grinch) around the historic center.

What kind of Christmas isn’t complete without meeting Santa?

A man dressed as Santa in Plaza San Francisco along with his photographers setting up a display.
It’s a game of ‘where’s Santa?’

Buy souvenirs at the many temporary markets

Santuranticuy Market isn’t the only Christmas market in Cusco during Christmas. There’s also a huge temporary market outside Mercado San Pedro as well. Here you can find tons of sweet treats, “alpaca wool” clothes, paneton and more!

Also, outside of the Basilica Menor de la Merced there’s another market selling hand crafted goods and Christmassy trinkets.

A vendor at the Christmas market outside of Mercado San Pedro selling paneton, Christmas drinks and other food.
Christmas foods in the market outside Mercado San Pedro.

All of these markets run from the week leading up to Christmas all the way until the New Year, so you’ll have plenty of time to visit!

Join a Christmas Eve church service in Cusco

As with most Christian countries on the planet, you can head for an evening church service on Christmas Eve.

Sara and I aren’t the religious types, so it’s something we decided to miss. But if you’re looking for a church community over Christmas, almost every church in Cusco is holding a mass.

This is also the time to come and have your baby Jesus blessed for your nativity scene!

Buy nativity decorations from the locals

As we mentioned, the Santuranticuy is a great market to buy nativity decorations and figures of saints. 

Local indigenous Peruvian women sat on the street selling a bunch of leaves, grass and moss .
Women from the countryside selling grass, moss and other natural decorations.

However, over Christmas a lot of local indigenous women from the surrounding countryside of Cusco descend on the city to sell soil, leaves and other pieces of plants. These decorations can be used to add a natural vibe to your nativity.

Or you could just use them to add some Christmassy feeling to your home!

Wear matching Christmas jumpers

This one isn’t particularly niche to Cusco – we also do this as a family in the UK – but why not keep global traditions alive, hey?

A family taking a selfie in Cusco while wearing matching red, blue and white Christmas jumpers.
How cute is this family!

Head to the shop and grab you and your family some Christmas jumpers. Although in Cusco, they’re not just any Christmas jumpers, they’re fancy Christmas jumpers made from expensive alpaca wool!

You’re going to look adorable.

Light sparklers at midnight on Christmas Eve

When the clock strikes midnight on Christmas Eve, release your inner kid by playing with sparklers!

We tried lighting fireworks that our host bought us, but after two failed attempts we decided it would be safer to put them aside. Instead, we reverted to children, lit sparklers and tried to write our names in the air!

Sara smiling and holding up sparklers on Christmas Eve in Cusco.
Sara was very happy with her Christmas Eve sparklers.

Are museums in Cusco open on Christmas day?

Luckily, you can still visit museums on Christmas day in Cusco! Some museums will be open and some museums will be closed. It’s fully down to the proprietors of each museum.

If you’re looking to visit museums on Christmas day, definitely check the opening hours beforehand. The only way to do this and be 100% sure whether they’re open, is to physically go in and ask.

Is Machu Picchu open on Christmas day?

When it comes to Peru’s wonder of the world, it’s business as usual for Machu Picchu. If you’re looking to visit Machu Picchu over Christmas or new year though, you’ll definitely have to book tickets well in advance. There’s a high chance of an influx of local tourists over these dates!

Ryan and Sara wet from the rain dressed in hiking gear posing in front of a cloudy Machu Picchu.
We didn’t visit on Christmas day, but Machu Picchu is amazing!

Weather in Cusco at Christmas time

We found the weather in Cusco to be super mild over Christmas and New Year. If the sun is shining then the temperature could be as high as 20°C at its peak. If it’s an overcast, colder day then it could be around 10°C.

December and January is in Peru’s rainy season, so always be prepared with a raincoat or umbrella. You never know when it might rain!

People in the park at Plaza de Armas in Cusco beside the Church of the Society of Jesus on an overcast day.
A moody looking Plaza de Armas.

Once it starts getting later into the night, it does get pretty chilly. So have a big coat or thermals ready for watching the midnight fireworks.

Is Christmas in Cusco worth celebrating?

Sara and I genuinely had an amazing time celebrating Christmas in Cusco. Of all the towns and cities we based in during our South America trip, we couldn’t have picked a better place.

All the locals are super friendly, there are tons of Christmas activities to do and the food was delicious. We had a great time joining in with the traditions and learning about the Peruvian holiday culture. 

If we could offer one piece of advice though, try to lodge with a host family like we did to get the fill local experience!

Check out our other Cusco guides:

We hope that our guide covered everything you need to know about Christmas in Cusco. We always strive to offer the most accurate and up-to-date information we can but if you think something we’ve said is wrong, please let us know!

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